#15 – Arriving Galle Harbor
August 22, 2010
Lat.: 10’01 – Long.: 37’52
Time: 19h15

The Indian Ocean Voyage was marked day after day with swells reaching 20’ or more, and with winds peaking up to force 8. We had each lost 10 pounds or more from the sweat and stress of the Red Sea and no one had gained an ounce back. Minutes turned into hours, hours turned into days and days turned into weeks as we journeyed east. We changed watch after 4 hours on deck, anxious to get below and away from the fury of the sea or the heat of the day. Fortunately there was always dinner at the end of the day cooked by Mily or Michel – two chefs who took delight in a daily cooking extravaganza that we delighted in receiving.

Our last night before arriving Galle Harbor (Sri Lanka), we celebrated with champagne in a moonlit night and recalled this six weeks Red Sea and Indian Ocean odyssey. We felt raw, stripped of everything but the rhythm of Mir and the impressions of the ocean and its stars. We groked that Mir was on the “other” side – we had made it to Asia. Remarkably for me, this voyage would come to its completion in a land that I loved and was my home. As the mountains of Sri Lanka appeared in the new light, I began to sing.

– Abigail Alling

#14 – From the West to the East August 18, 2010 Lat.: 09’15 – Long.: 72’46 Time: 13h30

Finally, a change. Suddenly, a change. We officially arrived in Asia, and felt it. As we are navigating the 9° Channel, separating India and the Maldives, and getting closer everyday to Sri Lanka, the conditions ease and the sea becomes calm again. The boat stops rocking and we can have some rest. With our engine running, the wind being nowhere to be felt, we take the opportunity to let Mir breathe. The damp and humid atmosphere that had become our everyday routine onboard is slowly being replaced by a sunny, fresh air that our now opened hatches let in. Revigorous, both for the boat and the crew. Another Blue Marble is thrown to mark this very much appreciated change.

We made it to Asia, and in few days we will be in Sri Lanka. – Fred Platon

#13 – Milky sea August 11, 2010 Lat.: 15’34 – Long.: 61’27 Time: 20h30

Somewhere in the middle of the Indian Ocean, live bioluminescent bacteria that create shapes of shrimps and worms in a sea of milk. This happens every once in a great while on the right black moon when they surface to come out and play! We were only so luck y to be invited to the party! I arrive on deck to get sorted out before starting my watch (22:00hrs-02:00hrs);Coffee in hand almost satisfying the deck’s cravings of spilt caffeine. Rubbing the dreams out of my eyes, the sea appears to have lost all contours and definition of the nighttime sea. There is a strange green glow emanating from the ocean and also casting the appearance of fog of some sort. Cloud 9, Invert ego, Am I still Sleeping? No, welcome to the Milky Sea.

Looking out to the horizon you can see a clear cutoff line where the ectoplasm sea stops and all is normal. What a rare naturally occuring phenomenon. Less than 300 reported sightings recorded. The most famous recording is in Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea (see Indian Ocean chapter). By 00:30 hrs we had left the Milky Sea to the west of us. It appeared to be the long lost city of Atlantis casting a glow up into the sea and air to call us back and return, but we decided it was best to continue on course for Sri Lanka. – Clarence Wainer

#12 – Salalah, Oman August 07, 2010 Lat.: 16’56 – Long.: 54’00 Time: 14h20

The good news is we got through the pirate corridor. The bad news is we lost our running back stays for the main mast! Yikes! As we turned to head towards Sri Lanka and began to beat into a SE wind, our two mainmast running stays broke, one right after the next. Thus, we turned NE and stopped for a day in Nishtun, Yemen’s beautiful bay with sperm whales and humpback dolphins, realizing after trying to fix the problem that we would need supplies only available in nearby Salalah Oman.

Oman was a bustle of activity – summer gatherings by tribal people mingling in the city to share honey, spices and perfumes as well as dances, music and stories. We worked during the day cutting, replacing and binding the cable while scampering up and down the mast to re-rig the lines. At night we were absorbed by the bubbling festivities. Salalah Harbor is a mix of ancient and modern. As we headed back out to sea, we passed huge container ships maneuvering amidst ancient dhows. In that image we could not help but appreciate that shipping companies should be the natural stewards and guardians of our seas. These colossal vessels are majestic and it is beautiful to see them slice through the water creating waves for dolphins to jump and play. What a change this would be if the seas were no longer troubled by vessels dumping garbage & waste, creating excessive noise pollution, accidentally spilling oil or colliding with other boats and whales! – Laser Van Thillo

#11 – Pirate Corridor July 30, 2010 Lat.: 13’19 – Long.: 49’03 Time: 12h20

We are a group of humans passing by the highest risky area in the world, between 47° and 49° longitude; between Somalia and Yemen. Everyone told us not to go here. We come from many origins, by choice, but mainly by faith, fate and destiny. Our words, actions and characters lead us the way to where we are now. We believe in a loving and caring humanity. As an international team onboard Mir, we care for each other and hope to be an example for others to do the same. Moving on from humanity to “lifity” – a word I invented to express a world in which all parts of life take care of each other in an active way. Dolphins and sea creatures escort us, playing daily along our bow. Last night more than fifty dragonflies decided to spend the night with us, hanging in full force 6 winds on our mast cables. A few nights ago a whole flock of birds did the same, so far away from resting land. This blue marble was thrown 2218 meters deep down in the middle of the Gulf of Aden while war ships and helicopters came to see who we were. This marble leaves our mark – a small step for humanity, a big step towards my wish that lifity is in our future. – Jan Travers